It seems that threads are such a trifle that it is impossible to earn on production and sale. However, only the person who has no idea about this business can agree with this. Although we don’t think about it, without life our lives would be completely different. Without them, many types of hobbies and needlework would not exist; it would be impossible to make fabric or sew clothes. Thread is the main component of the clothing industry. The latter is currently experiencing a rise and is causing more and more interest among investors. This also applies to enterprises that manufacture thread. Although there are still certain problems in this industry.
In a professional language, threads are called twisted products. To be more precise, these are flexible textiles of an indefinitely long length, which are produced by twisting individual fibers. Such products include not only sewing threads, yarn, floss, but also cords, ropes, ropes, etc. Both natural (cotton, linen, hemp, silk) and chemical (viscose, dacron, nylon, polypropylene) fibers and threads. The threads we are familiar with have the widest application. They are used to interconnect individual parts of clothing, shoes and other products (such threads are called sewing), for decoration (so-called loop and finishing cords), for packaging and household use (clotheslines, cords, twines), for repair, embroidery (floss, darn). They are used as a basis for the manufacture of other goods (for weaving fishing and sports nets, making tackle), as equipment (ropes, ropes, cords), for rigging. Depending on the purpose of the twisted product and the conditions in which it is intended to be used, product quality indicators may vary. But the main ones can be distinguished. First of all, this is the type of fiber, the number of additions, the yarn and threads used, the mass of a unit length of the product, fineness (the cross-sectional value of an individual fiber of cotton, linen, wool, etc.), the diameter or circumference (the last indicator is used to determine quality of ropes and ropes), tensile strength and elongation, an indicator of imbalance in fineness, weight, staining strength, etc.
Let us consider in more detail the main types of twisted products, which are most widely distributed. The most popular among them are sewing threads. For their manufacture, cotton or less often linen yarn, threads of natural silk and artificial viscose or synthetic (dacron, kapron) fibers are most often used. Sewing threads are subject to special requirements. They must have high tensile strength and have a smooth surface. Therefore, they are produced from combed yarn by combining at 3, 6, 9 and 12 ends and double torsion of the right and left twist. Natural material is perfectly bleached and absorbs paint, so the color scheme of such threads is practically unlimited. As a result of additional processing, the surface of the thread becomes dull or glossy.
The technological process for the production of cotton threads includes three main operations: crushing, torsion and finishing. The individual moments of production differ depending on how many additions the finished thread should be. For example, the thinnest sewing threads in three additions are made by twisting the three ends of a single-thread yarn. In most cases, the right twist yarn is used. The thread is twisted in the opposite direction of the yarn twist. To make yarns of six or more folds, the yarn is first folded (cane) at two, three or four ends and wound onto a spool without additional torsion. Then, the yarns folded together are twisted together by twisting machines. Twisting is carried out in two stages: preliminary (right twist) and main (in the opposite direction). It is very important that the number of torsions of the final twist corresponds to the preliminary one, otherwise the thread will turn out with a marriage called sukrutina. This defect is easy to identify visually: one strand of which the thread is composed is wrapped around the other with an inlet, twisting with a knot. Of course, it is impossible to sew with such a thread. Moreover, it may cause damage to the sewing machine. Therefore, when succutine occurs, the damaged thread is removed. So that the fibers of the thread do not shag and do not stray, the thread is moistened during torsion. Moisture makes the thread stronger and its surface smoother. In addition, a wet thread is less likely to get confused and twist. Sewing threads, as mentioned above, are made in most cases by the left twist. To develop the threads of the right twist, on the contrary, the left twist yarn is used.
After twisting machines, the threads are sent for finishing. To do this, they are rewound from coils into coils and boiled in weak alkaline solutions. This is necessary to remove impurities. In the production of white or light yarns, "semi-finished product", which initially has a yellowish or gray color, is first bleached in a solution of sodium hypochlorite or peroxide. Black and colored threads are dyed immediately after boiling in an alkaline solution, since in this case the initial color does not matter. But an important role is played by the quality of the dye, which is used for dyeing threads. Cheap low-quality dyes are poorly fixed, washed out of the fibers when washing things sewn with such threads, and, worst of all, stain the fabric, which leads to deterioration of the product. There are three main classes of dyes that are used in the manufacture of threads, providing ordinary, strong or ultra-strong color fastness.
After bleaching and dyeing, the threads go through the next stage of finishing - sizing, and then polishing. As a result of these procedures, they acquire properties such as strength, elasticity, softness and smoothness. An apprehend is a composition of starch, ether, synthetic resins and other components that are used to process twisted products and textile materials to give them rigidity and crease resistance. The exact list of substances that make up the sizing depends on the type of thread. If we are talking about the manufacture of threads with a shiny surface, then a sizing with a high content of adhesive components (for example, starch) is used, which glues the fibers together, creating a perfectly smooth surface. Gloss effect is achieved through the addition of stearin and less often wax. Since cotton and other natural fibers deteriorate faster from moisture and friction, antiseptics can be used to protect them and increase their service life. In the production of soft threads and threads with a matte surface, the sizing contains an increased amount of fatty and silicone softeners and a reduced amount of starch. After sizing, threads with a smooth surface undergo additional processing on polishing drums. Such drums are equipped with bristles with fine hair bristles. When rubbing on wooden planks, the surface of the thread is polished, acquiring a characteristic luster. Finally, the threads are ready and sent for winding. They are wound either on two-flange coils with a winding length of 200 meters, or on bobbins with a winding length of 200 to 400 meters.
According to the standards, there are several types of threads: “extra” and “prima” (in three additions), “special” (in six additions) and “especially durable” (in 9 and 12 additions). The fineness of the threads is indicated by a conventional trade number. The greater the value of this sales number, the thinner the sewing thread marked by it. For example, threads with numbers 10 and 20 are used for sewing tarpaulin and other super-dense and durable fabrics, with numbers 30 and 40 for sewing outerwear, threads with number 50 for sewing dresses, etc. Ready-made threads are necessarily tested for determination of strength and extensibility. Strength properties of fiber in sewing threads reach 80%. Such an indicator is determined by the use of high-quality raw materials for the production of yarn, the correct twist, roughness indicators, etc. The generally accepted standards give all the breaking load values for each type of yarn for finishing and grade for the number of additions.
Finished products must comply with the quality of painting and finishing GOST 15.007-81. Matching tone is determined by the approved color map. Sewing threads are of the first or second grade. In order to determine the grade of the finished product, a specialist inspects 100 packages of 200 meters each. In the course of such an examination, points are given for the presence of defects in appearance and in terms of unevenness. For white threads of the first grade on two-flange coils with a winding length of 200 meters, the total number of points should not exceed 45, and for white, colored and black threads of the second grade, the maximum value is 110 points. The longer the winding of the thread on the spool or bobbin, the greater the number of acceptable points. There are a lot of nuances that a specialist in assessing the quality of sewing threads should know. For example, the unevenness of threads should not exceed five turns in a loop formed by a thread of 250 mm length of carded and combed yarn with the number of additions from 2 to 12. It is not surprising that it is not so easy to find good experts in assessing the quality of finished products. Especially when you consider that most of these industries are located in order to save in the regions, and not in large cities.
Darn threads (or darning, as they are often called) are made of cotton, wool and blended yarn by weakly twisting four threads of combed or carded cotton yarn. Just like sewing threads, the darn is different in numbers: the darning at number 40 is made from combed mercerized yarn, and at number 25 it is made from ordinary carded yarn. It is produced in balls or skeins.
In addition to sewing threads, embroidery threads are common. The so-called floss is considered the highest quality of them. These are soft mercerized threads with a weak twist of thin combed yarn. The cotton thread of the mouline thread undergoes additional technological processing, which is called "mercerization". During this procedure, fleece is removed from the surface of the thread, as a result of which it becomes smoother. Mercerization is a rather expensive procedure, so the cost of a floss is higher than the cost of ordinary sewing threads. Mercerized cotton is similar in appearance to synthetic and silk threads at the same time. It becomes not only brilliant, but softer and more durable. The color of such a thread is bright, durable, does not fade in the sun, easily passes through a fabric with a uniform weave of threads or canvas.
To make a mouline thread, six ends of twisted at two ends of the threads are reared into a common thread, after which it is slightly twisted. Dense twist in this case is unacceptable. Mouline thread, which is produced in skeins of 10 and 20 meters, is easily divided into six separate threads. If the quality of domestic sewing threads is relatively high, and the assortment is quite diverse, then the situation with the Russian mouline thread is not so good. In our country, it is produced by two large enterprises: OJSC PNK im. S. M. Kirov "and the company" Gamma ". Unfortunately, the quality of domestic floss differs not for the better from the quality of products of Western manufacturers (for example, Anchor and DMC). And the color scheme is not very diverse. The main plus of Russian embroidery threads is that they cost an order of magnitude cheaper than Western products and are of better quality than the cheapest mouline thread of Chinese and Indian origin.
In addition to the floss, the so-called embroidery paper is used for embroidery - a single-crocheted four-fold cotton thread from combed or carded yarn of moderate twist. Unlike a floss, it is not only mercerized, but also matte.
Knitting threads for hand knitting stockings, socks, knitwear, lace and other products are cotton threads (iris, garus, crochet, etc.), as well as silk yarn and three-dimensional threads made of synthetic fibers. The most famous of them is iris - twisted yarns in two additions from mercerized and relatively dense yarn of weak twist. Crochet is made from mercerized and ordinary yarn in four additions by double twisting. Unlike sewing threads, the final twist in the production of crochets turns out to be half as much as the preliminary one, which makes the thread weave like a cord. Crochet is available in tangles weighing from 10 to 20 grams.
Also for knitting, wool yarn is used, which can be thin (combed spinning method) or thick (hardware spinning). In addition to thickness, yarn can also vary in fiber composition. In this case, a distinction is made between yarn made from pure wool, yarn made from wool mixed with man-made fibers, or semi-woolen yarn with synthetic or man-made threads. For the manufacture of yarn, Angora, merino, crossbred or crossbred wool, rabbit fluff, etc. are used. For beauty, metallic threads are added to the thread, it is dyed in one color, two colors, and bleached. There is wool with a melange effect (color transitions from light to dark). Usually, yarn is produced in the form of skeins weighing 50 grams. Depending on the thickness of the thread, its length in the skein will vary. Bulk yarn is made from bulky synthetic threads (lavsan, kapron, acon, comelan). To create various effects (gloss), metallized threads and profiled fibers are used.
Regardless of the type of thread, twisted products must strictly comply with the standard or TU, be tear and abrasion resistant, have uniform thickness, tight winding and strong color.
To organize the production of threads, you will need a separate room for the workshop and warehouses, special equipment (twisting machines, equipment for painting and winding, for packaging finished products in film). 10 people per shift are enough to work at an average production size. Thread manufacturers sell their products to sewing industries, wholesale companies, and retail stores that sell accessories and fabrics.
The main problems faced by enterprises working in this area: low wages (and, therefore, high staff turnover), the use of outdated equipment (one new machine will cost 1.5-2 million rubles, and enterprises are trying to save using old cars to their full depreciation), lack of own funds for the development of production, remoteness from large cities, competition from foreign manufacturers. The main supplier of natural raw materials for light industry is agriculture. But it is going through hard times. Flax productivity is falling every year. The number of sheep that produce most of the natural wool is constantly declining.
The cotton from which cotton sewing threads are made is not grown in our country, therefore, imported raw materials are used for the production of such products, the supply of which is often disrupted. In addition to natural raw materials, synthetic and artificial fibers are used in light industry. The feedstock for their production is oil refinery waste, coal tar, natural gas. They are mined in the Center, in the Volga region, in the West Siberian, North Caucasian and Central Black Earth economic regions. However, some types of synthetic fibers are not produced at all in our country.
Sysoeva Lilia
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